TVS Mani, the proprietor of Shanthi Tailors, is not just another tailor. A specialist in designing costumes for Classical Indian Dance, Mani also runs the Tamil monthly, Oolaga Thyyarkalaiganan, exclusively devoted to tailoring. A dedicated businessman, he was also instrumental in the formation of a Welfare association for the tailoring community in Chennai. He was awarded the Natya Odai Rathinam by Vakkirisami Pillai and the Pinnudathaiyellur (Honest Tailor) award from the Shanmuganandha Bharatnatyam School. www.chennaibest.com spoke to this Dance Costume designer.

No. Nobody in my family hailed from this profession. I was the first one to take up this profession and pursue it as a career. I came to Chennai for my Schooling. Unfortunately or fortunately, I do not know, I could not continue in School. It was at that time that I contemplated Tailoring as an option. I liked the idea of designing Dance costumes. I decided to pursue this idea further. That's how it all happened. As for the motivation factor, I was deeply influenced by the Thirukkural.

For the past thirty years.

No. I design for all Classical Indian Dances. Since Chennai is a hub for Bharatanatyam, most of my orders will be from this segment.

Most of it is in Bharatanatyam. The three-pleats dance costume was in vogue for a long time. At present the V-shaped fan is very popular. This is called Rama style, after the name of the artist. Usually, a new design is identified with the artist who wears it for the first time. Then the Kalakshetra style is also very popular.

Usually three types of material are widely used. Pure Kancheepuram Silk sarees, Dharmavaram sarees and China silk. Polycot varieties are also used.

Dharmavaram Silk.

This is not a one-man show. We work here as a team. Different people do the cutting, stitching and ironing. On an average, we can deliver dress in a single day.

It starts from Rs1,800/-. The maximum is Rs.5,000/-. It also depends on the type of material that is to be stitched.

Nearly eight.

Dancers right from 5 to 50 years of age. I design for both men and women. Most often customers are recommended and sent here.

There are four actors involved in designing a costume. Teacher, Parents, Tailor and the Artiste. Each one has a different viewpoint and ideas on how the material is to be stitched. An intelligent designer will always rely on psychology. The designer has to listen patiently to the ideas suggested and then balance those with the anatomy. Tailoring done without taking the anatomy into account will be useless. Aspects like broad shoulders, height and occasion have to be taken into account. I think this has helped a lot. Today, my customers place orders from abroad; for themselves and for their students.

Have you designed costumes for films?

Yes. I did. But you will not see my name there. I usually do not approach Directors. They come to me. To name a few films - Mythili Ennai Kadhali and Kadhalan.

I would not like to be identified as a designer for a particular artiste. I would rather appreciate if the artiste felt proud to have chosen me as her designer.

Modernisation is very difficult in this type of costume designing. This profession is directly linked to our culture. Changes have to fit into this cultural framework. That is very important.

Yes. That's a good question. My first customer was Shanthi. It is after her that this place is named. Later on, when I got married, it so happened that my wife was also called Shanthi. Many think that it is named after her (my wife). But it is not so.

Address: Shanthi Tailors, #6, Kapaleeswarar Sannathi street,
Mylapore, Chennai 600 004
Phone: 494 3783
Fax: 91-44-4934558
URL: www.shanthitailors.com