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As
you drive down the East-Coast road to Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram),
past the myriad farm houses, adjacent to MGM Dizee
world, is Dakshinachitra, some 28 kms from Chennai.
Dakshinachitra, roughly translated in this context, means
'picture of South India'. It is a depiction of the
way of life prevalent in South India. A trip down Dakshinachitra
takes you back to traditional home architecture from Tamil
Nadu, Kerala and Karnataka. A typical village space,
with exhibitions and workshops of the arts and crafts and
performing artists of South India. Started with the objective
to revive, preserve and promote the arts and crafts of South
India, it also serves as heritage education for visitors from
outside South India and also for children who have never had
the opportunity to experience their culture. More than four
years old, Dakshinachitra was founded by the Madras Craft
Foundation. Conceived by its Chairman Deborah Tyagarajan,
it is has been brought to life by the British Architect, Lawrie
Baker.
As soon
as you reach Dakshinachitra, you are shown an 18-minute orientation
video, which gives you an idea as to what the place is all
about. A sudden peace and quiet fills my heart as we begin
the trek down this 10-acre land. The orientation video speaks
of the cycle of life as being harmonious with nature. It gives
you an insight into the various cultural, socio-economic and
climatic factors that influenced the architecture in the olden
days. These are real 18th and 19th century houses where people
lived at some point of time; they have been dismantled and
reconstructed at Dakshinachitra.
First
on the list is the Karnataka Weaver's House. The weaver
community of Karnataka are known for the famous Ilkal
saree. One peculiarity of the Ilkal saree being
the white silk band. The weaver community of Karnataka are
snake worshippers and are also devotees of Lord Shiva.
They use copper and brass pots. Jawar rotis form their
staple diet.
Next,
we move on to the Ayyanar Shrine of Tamil Nadu. The
Ayyanar shrine has large statues of the village guardian deity,
who protects the village from evil and wrongdoing. He protects
the village with the help of Karuppuswamy, popularly
known as Karuppu, who supposedly roams around on a
horse or elephant, protecting the village. The priest at the
Ayyanar Shrine belongs to the potter community. Ayyanar worship
is popular in and around the Madurai, Pudukottai and
Virudhunagar regions. The highlight of Ayyanar shrines
is the large terracotta horses and elephants. Each year the
traditional Ayyanar shrine has a major village festival where
villagers dedicate new terracotta horses and cows to the gods.
Adjacent
to the Ayyanar Shrine is the Tamil Nadu Basket Maker's
House. Made of mud and cow dung, the house has a thatched
roof. The entrance is typically decorated with Kolam
(designs made by hand with rice powder). This tradition
of drawing Kolam is a part of an age-old system. The
Kolam supposedly provides food for ants and birds.
And
then we move on to the Potter's House. The house depicts
the actual lifestyle of the potters, with space for living
and working. A separate working area has been provided for
Palani - son of the master potter Ramu Velan
from Thiruvallur, to demonstrate to visitors, the art
of making pots. Ironically, what was a way of life some time
ago has now got to be demonstrated as art. Ramu Velan and
Palani are resident potters of Dakshinachitra. They work at
Dakshinachitra for its in-house requirements and also conduct
pottery workshops. Some of their works are sold at the Dakshinachitra
crafts shop.
The Tamil
Nadu Weaver's House is an authentic weaver's house
from Kancheepuram. Weavers work in the large open area
around the courtyard, with all the necessary equipment. This
house is a delight for the traditional Indian woman who still
prefers the graceful saree. On display are various sarees
in the Chettinad, Coimbatore and Kancheepuram tradition. Another
interesting display is the Real Madras Handkerchief
called RMHK. It is actually used as a body drape, but
is called a kerchief, because of its square shape. The RMHK
was sent to the Kalabari tribe in Africa, who
loved the RMHK for its softness and vibrant colours.
Behind
the Weaver's house is a Chariot hall which houses an
18th century wooden Ratha (Chariot); probably
from the Tanjore region. The Ratha would be taken out of the
temple for processions, carrying a well-decorated bronze deity.
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