TRANQUEBAR

A sleepy fishing village, formerly Danish territory, with seventeenth century Danish buildings, sounded like a reason enough to rub shoulders with my backpack again.

Tranquebar,(called Tarangambadi in Tamil), lies 35 kms north of Nagapattinam and 50 kms from Chidambaram. The only thing that separates this village from any other village on the east coast of Tamil Nadu is the Danish connection. Tranquebar owes it presence on the map, to this fact.

The first building (of any significance) to welcome any visitor, is an old gateway with wooden doors, at the entrance of the town, built by the Danish in 1792. Now, it is dilapidated, with walls looking like its been through a battle. The arch leads to the main street of the town, called King Street.

The Danes landed in Tranquebar in 1620, for commerce. Tranquebar had been an important port and a busy trade centre till the beginning of the nineteenth century. Christian missionaries came in after trade was established, to spread their religion. The New Jerusalem Church and Zion Church are a testament to this fact. As I walk down the deserted Kings Street, I can't help but wonder why the Danes choose Tranquebar for their settlement. In 1845, the Danes sold Tranquebar to the British after ruling for 225 years.

The New Jerusalem Church, built in 1718, by Rev Barthamow Ziegenbalg, happens to be the first Danish-built building that I see in my life. The Danish royal crown insignia, on the façade of the church is conspicuous. It is well maintained and is still in use. It is a small church, built for the converted Indians. The church also has a small cemetery around it, with some tombstones erected in the early eighteenth century.

Across the street is another church, the Zion Church. It was built in 1702 and was later renovated in 1782 - 84 and again in1839. Initially built for the Danes, this church is also still in use by the Church of South India.

A short walk towards the beach, there is an old dilapidated bungalow, standing precariously, struggling against the force of gravity. This is the Danish Governor Bungalow built in 1784. Today, this place is a hangout for street urchins and vagabonds. Interestingly, this is still the largest building in Tranquebar and comes under purview of the Tamilnadu Tourism Department. This beautiful building is neglected and inaccessible, unless you are willing to risk your life on the crumbling stairs. Which, I did, and was treated to a beautiful view of the fort and the sea.

Opposite the bungalow is the magnificent Dansborg, the Danish fort, built in 1620. This is a stunning piece of Viking architecture, with enclosing stonewalls and cannons facing the sea. It looks like the Danes had much more than business on their mind. The fort, is now converted into an archaeological museum, with many weapons and artefacts from the Danish past. A 'must visit' for any history buff.

On the sea front, fighting a losing battle against the sea is the last monument in this village, Masilamani Nathar temple, built in 1305 by Mahaverma Kulasekara Pandiyan. The temple is partly eroded by the advancing sea. Some parts of the temple are still intact and locals still use the temple.

Once a busy and important trade centre, this forgotten village of Tranquebar intrigues me with its history and captivates me with its beauty.

Route: On the road connecting Chidambaram and Nagapattinam. Can hire taxis and vans from both places. Also well connected by local buses.

Nearest rail hub: Nagapattinam ( 35 kms)
Nearest airport: Trichy (128 kms)
Accommodation: Can stay in Nagapattinam or Chidambaram and make a one-day trip to Tranquebar.
Notes: King street is a short walk from the Tranquebar Bus stop.

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